Macedonia: Sunday May 28 2017: Day 8
Name of Ohrid: "hid" meaning hill, there was a woman whose man went away to war, she mourned in the hills "Ohrid" and threw herself off a cliff. So loosely "Hills of Sighs"
Ohrid Old City
Bay of Bones: Mitchov grad
Reconstructed water settlement, thatch huts. 8-12th c BCE Bones of animals found in the lake. Early settlers would hunt, throw bones of kill into lake, that drew fish they would catch
Roman watch tower reconstruction on hill overlooking bay
6000 remains of pillars from villages over time. 20 houses, 3 communal buildings. (Round ones were communal; used as meeting places, etc)
Shrine of Saint Naum (830-910)
Statue of St Naum, carved a standing oak tree into image of St Naum in a fifteen hour stint using chain saw One monk, holds services Peacocks. About 20 of them, rage free. Nobody knows how they got here. Considered one of the miracles of St Naum Male Peacocks are the ornate ones. (As opposed to the Human Balkans, where the women are stunning and beautifully arrayed)
St Naum and St Clement both students of the great enlighteners, Cyril and Methodius Current church is rebuilt, dates from 15th c, interior from 18th c
St Naum died 910, buried here. Big pilgrimage destination. He is considered a miracle doer, especially for mental illness.
On the stream coming from the stream that feeds lake Ohrid Water is /crystal/ clear
Miracles of St Naum
- Cured many people who were mentally ill, depicted in frescoes as lying prone or perhaps floating
- A bear ate a peasant's ox, St Naum tamed the bear and made him serve the farmer for three years.
- Horse thief stole a horse from the monastery; it led him back overnight to the monastery gates.
- King Boris, fearing Naums popularity, imprisoned St Naum. Cured the Kings daughter; king gave him the lands for Monastery and supported church.
Lagoon Boat Tour
30 springs, most underwater but a few that trickle down Could see the water bubbling up through the sand Up to 3 1/2 meters deep and perfectly transparent
Folk Music at Lunch
- Македонско девојче (Makedonsko Devojče): Macedonian Girl
- Oh Susannah / When the Saints Go Marching In
- Очи черные (Otchi Chernye): Dark Eyes
- на срце ми лежи мила мамо (Na Srce Mi Lezi Mila Mamo)
Pepper paste (sweet not spicy peppers). It really is ubiquitous: all the Balkans on our trip -- very cosmopolitan all -- made homemade ajvar and made or had a relative who made Rakia.
Big thick meaty fully ripe Red peppers. Wash them and roast them on all four sides. Peel off the burned gloss skin, and discard the stem and seed, then wash again and drain very well. Then grind them, add salt a little bit of black pepper (and maybe a preservative). Huge pot with warm oil, put it in and mix until done.
Dinner: Macedonian Barbecue
Folk dancing! Traditionally dressed four guys four girls and a four piece band (drum, accordion, clarinet, guitar). A highlight.
- Makedonsko Devojchek, others